Walking The Nakasendo Samurai Trail – Magome to Tsumago

What Is The Nakasendo Trail?

The Nakasendō (中山道) was an ancient highway that connected Kyoto and Edo (modern-day Tokyo). Literally meaning “中 = central; 山 = mountain; 道 = route”, it was one of Japan’s Five Routes (五街道, Gokaidō) and spanned 534 km of cobblestone roads.

The Kiso Mountains in central Japan are home to the trail’s most stunning section: the Kisoji, or Kiso Road. This historic pathway weaved through the mountains shared by the Gifu and Nagano Prefectures, and was well known for its untouched nature, boasting dense green forests, crystal-clear waters, and quaint rural villages.

Post Towns

Lining the route were 69 ‘post towns’, small settlements built to accommodate weary travellers making the long journey between the two major cities. Incredibly, a handful of these historic towns have been well preserved and maintained throughout the centuries, offering a captivating glimpse back in time to the Edo period.

Magome-juku (馬籠宿) and Tsumago-juku (妻籠宿) are two of the best-preserved post towns along this ancient trail. Wandering through their wooden house-lined main streets is like stepping back in time, following in the footsteps of samurai warriors. Souvenir shops, cafes and a handful of accommodation options are interspersed seamlessly amongst the many local residences.

Both towns have put great effort into restoring and/or maintaining their respective Honjin and Wakihonjin. In post towns, the Honjin was the highest ranked inn and served government officials who were travelling through. When it had no more space, the Wakihonjin was used for the overspill, as well as accommodating travellers of slightly lower status.

Magome-juku

Magome-juku (馬籠宿) was the 43rd stop of 69 post towns lining the Nakasendo. It has been amazingly restored with a long sloping stone pathway surrounded by wooden buildings and well maintained greenery.

Don’t miss these highlights during your visit:

• Honjin/Tōson Memorial Museum (500 yen), which was once the highest ranked inn of Magome-juku, and today hosts a small museum dedicated to Tōson Shimazaki who was born in Magome-juku.

• Wakihonjin Museum (300 yen), the secondary inn of the town, which now acts as a small museum as well.

• Kosatsuba, or “Official Notice Board” (Free), which once was where the important laws and decrees from the shogunate were posted. If you read a good level of Japanese, you can still make out some of the prohibitions and warnings!

Tsumago-juku

Tsumago-juku (妻籠宿) was the 42nd post town on the Nakasendo route between Kyoto and Edo. Today, it’s well known as one of the best preserved post towns in all of Japan.

The town and its residents go to great lengths to recreate the atmosphere of the Edo Period. Cars are prohibited on the main street (during the day), and phone lines and power cables are kept concealed, which all works to give you the feeling you have stepped back in time.

More highlights you shouldn’t miss:

• Honjin (300 yen or 700 yen combo that also includes the Wakihonjin), which was reconstructed in the 1990s and resembles its condition in the 1830s, when it served as the town’s primary inn.

• Wakihonjin (600 yen or 700 yen combo that also includes the Honjin), with its authentic main building dating back to the 19th century.

• Kotoku Temple (Optional donation), is a Buddhist temple which is believed to have been built in 1500. While not a show-stopper, it’s worth a stop to feel its history in the air around you!

• Kosatsuba, or “Official Notice Board” (Free), another of the notice boards that once displayed the important laws and prohibitions from the shogunate. Try and read the decrees if you have a good level of written Japanese understanding!

• Tsumago Castle Grounds (Free), which was destroyed many centuries ago, but still affords amazing views over the valley below. Located about a kilometre from the main street.

Walking The Nakasendo Trail: Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku

While much of the original Nakasendo has been lost to time or turned into modern roads, some parts of the original road remain. The trail connecting Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku is one such treasure. This roughly 8-kilometre path will take around 2-3 hours to complete at a gentle pace, excluding time to explore both towns. It’s a well marked route in both English and Japanese, and leads through the dense forest and countryside.

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Walking the trail is increasingly popular, with many visiting to experience the great blend of deep history and breathtaking natural beauty.

Which Direction Should I Walk?

You can walk the trail in either direction, although many opt for starting in Magome-juku and heading northbound to end in Tsumago-juku, as this involves slightly fewer uphill sections.

Whichever direction you decide to go, there is a regular bus service taking passengers between the towns, meaning you can park one, do the walk then hop on the bus back to where you started (just familiarise yourself with the bus times before you leave). We walked from Tsumago-juku to Magome-juku, purely because we were staying the night in Magome-juku as part of our epic campervan roadtrip.

There are plenty of free parking areas in both towns, just google ‘Magome (or Tsumago) Parking Areas’ and pick the one that works best for you.

Where Does The Trail Start?

Once you’ve explored the charming and historic town you’re starting in, find the correct starting point for your hike:

Magome-juku

The Magome-juku start of the trail is at the upper entrance of the town. Cross the road and head up to the viewpoint to start the walk.

Tsumago-juku

The start of the trail on the Tsumago-juku side is just past the lower entrance to the town.

What To Expect When Walking The Nakasendo Trail

The initial section of the route (when walking from Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku) starts with a bit of an uphill ascent, where you’ll gain about 200 metres of altitude. This pinnacle, which is the highest point of the route, is known as the Magome Pass.

As you carry onwards, you’ll shortly come across Tateba Tea House, where you can stop for a traditional tea and a break. The green tea is free, although you are encouraged to donate to keep the famed tea house going. The historic building dates back to the mid-Edo period, so you’ll be stopping in the exact same building as the many samurai before you.

The rest of the trail is a simple yet beautiful meandering walk through dense forest and scattered farmland. You’ll be literally walking in the footsteps of samurais and officials centuries before, as you follow the same cobblestone path they did.

If you’re feeling brave (and the weather is warm enough), take a dip in the Male (Odaki) & Female (Medaki) waterfalls (男滝女滝), just outside of Tsumago-juku along the trail. It’s a great way to cool off from the sweatiness of the walk!

A Quick Note On Restaurants

If you’re looking for somewhere to eat in the evening in Magome, then be aware that restaurant choices are limited in Magome. While we were there, we discovered (a bit late) that most restaurants close as early as 4pm or sell out of food fast in this remote location. It’s important to plan ahead!

We got lucky and came across a restaurant called Haginoya whilst we were walking back through Magome in the dark, which happened to be open and had availability. When you enter the old Japanese house, you’re provided with a set menu dining experience where you eat in private rooms per group. Each dish was carefully curated, explained to you prior to eating and used lots of local ingredients. We were lucky enough to walk in without a reservation, but we would recommend booking in advance.

Exploring the towns and walking the trail between the two is a truly unforgettable experience and one we wholeheartedly recommend – it remains one of the coolest things we’ve ever done in Japan.

We tackled the walk as part of our epic week-long campervan trip around central Japan. If you haven’t checked it out yet, then give it a read.

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