As a new modern wonder of the world, the ancient city of Petra is a bucket list destination for many worldwide, and is probably the first thing on almost every ‘10 Best Things to See and Do In Jordan’ list, and for good reason! The epic archaeological site is enormous – much more than just the famous Treasury seen in most pictures. In fact, it takes most visitors more than half a day to explore the full extent of the World Heritage Site.
Wanting to make the most of our experience, we spent plenty of time researching to ensure we made the most of our single-day trip. We eventually came across the Back Door Trail leading to the Monastery, and we’re incredibly glad we did.
If you’re after the ultimate way to beat the crowds, experience a unique visit and enjoy unbelievable scenery, this is the BEST way to visit Petra. Read on for your guide to this lesser-known approach of visiting the famous sandstone city.
The Classic Petra Route: A Quick Overview
Most people who visit Petra start their exploration from the main entrance, starting from the Petra Visitor Centre and winding through the stunning Siq canyon, and finally emerging at the breathtaking Treasury. It’s an incredible sight, and while this option is undeniably special and beautiful, it has a few small downsides – it gets very busy, and your entire visit is in a straight line. You walk for a few hours in one direction, see all the incredible tombs and ruins, only to turn around and retrace your steps back to the entrance.
Enter the Back Door Trail
The back door trail, also known as the “Al Madras” trail, involves far fewer tourists, a more exclusive experience of Petra and a story that will make even your most adventurous friends jealous.
The trail will take you through some incredible Mars-like landscapes with stunning views, from Little Petra, near the small Bedouin village of Umm Sayhoun, all the way to one of Petra’s most magnificent sites – the Monastery (Al-Deir). Many visitors miss out on the Monastery because it’s the furthest point on the main route and involves a gruelling 1-2 hour uphill trek in the scorching heat. Taking the back door trail, however, means you’ll be going downhill all the way back, making your adventure far more enjoyable!
Starting from the small Bedouin village of Umm Sayhoun, this path takes you directly to one of Petra’s most magnificent sites – the Monastery (Al-Deir). From here, you can continue your exploration down towards the iconic Treasury, all while avoiding the bulk of the crowd.
Top Tips Before You Begin Your Journey
I’m sure you’re excited to jump in, but there’s a few crucial bits of information you should know before we get down to the nitty-gritty details of the trail.
Estimated Time to Complete: The hike to the Monastery via the back door trail takes about 1.5 to 2.5 hours, depending on your starting position and walking pace. It’s a moderately challenging hike, but nothing too strenuous if you’re reasonably fit. To make the most of your day, start your hike early in the morning. This way, you’ll reach the Monastery before the main crowds arrive.
Tickets and Entry: Don’t forget, you’ll still need a valid Petra ticket to hike the back door route. I recommend purchasing your tickets online in advance to save time. Click here to get your Petra ticket.
Bathrooms: There are no bathrooms on this trail, so you’ll need to go before arriving at the trailhead or wait until you reach the Monastery or the Basin (centre of Petra).
Essentials: It goes without saying that Jordan can get HOT, so make sure you have the necessary precautions covered. Bring plenty of water, sunscreen, a hat and comfortable walking shoes. The terrain can be rocky and uneven in places.
Get Your Camera Ready: With so many stunning sights, make sure your camera or smartphone is fully charged, and consider taking a portable charger to top up on the go. You’ll want to capture every moment – we took hundreds of photos when we were there!
Consider a Guide: Hiring a guide can take a lot of the stress out of the hike, as the trail is not always clearly marked. They’ll be familiar with the routes and can provide more colourful explanations to what you’re looking at, which really brings the history to life.
| Time to complete | 1.5 – 2.5 hours, depending on starting point (more below) |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
| Route type | Point-to-point |
| Bathrooms on trail | None |
| Guide requirement | Recommended but not essential |
Red: Back Door Trail
Blue: Main Petra Trail
Starting Your Back Door Adventure
The obvious first question: where do you start? Your journey will begin in Little Petra (also known as Triclinium or Siq al-Barid), near to the village of Umm Sayhoun. It’s a short taxi ride from Wadi Musa, the main town where most visitors to Petra stay. The best way to get there is to ask your hotel to arrange transportation, or catch a local taxi which costs around 10 JOD.
Once you’ve arrived, we’d strongly recommend exploring the archaeological site and the souvenir shops outside. Little Petra is a charming, quieter glimpse into Nabatean architecture that features its own unique ruins, including ancient dining rooms and painted frescoes. When you’re ready to set off on your walk to Petra, you have two options for where to begin:
- Walk directly from Little Petra to the Monastery (~2.5 hours)
- Take the shuttle pickup truck to a bedouin camp half way along the trail (~1.5 hours)
Little Petra Trailhead
Shuttle Drop Off
The walk from the Monastery down to see the Treasury will take another 1-2 hours, or longer if you stop along the way at the local stalls, food places, and hidden temples.
We took the shuttle truck due to time constraints, so we can only speak for that particular part of the journey. Doing so will save you about 1 hour of hiking and only costs around 5 JOD, so it’s a great option if your schedule won’t allow for a longer hike or you would prefer less walking. The stretch of trail from the shuttle drop-off point to the Monastery is the most impressive part anyway.
Remember; you’ll be on your feet for hours after the hike as you explore the ancient city. Only attempt what you’re comfortable with, don’t overexert yourself and take your time to enjoy it.
Be mindful – the shuttle is an unregulated and unscheduled system. Sometimes it’s overcrowded, and you will have to wait for an undetermined amount of time for the next shuttle, if there is one at all. The best advice we can give is to ask the locals at the Little Petra office, who will have more information on the day.
Highlights of the Back Door Trail
The Monastery (Al-Deir): This majestic structure is larger and, in many ways, more impressive than the Treasury. Because it’s at the end of a long hike for most visitors, it’s usually less crowded. Arriving here first thing in the morning via the back door trail means you’ll have it almost to yourself. Even at the height of the day, it’s quieter – and the picture opportunities are incredible. There’s a cafe here as well, so you can rest and grab an ice-cold drink to cool off.
Spectacular Views: The trail offers numerous panoramic outlooks that are simply jaw-dropping. The rose-red rock formations and gorges carved into the Earth that you see from above along the trail really highlight the rugged beauty of the Jordanian desert, and is an amazing sight to see.
A Peaceful Path: Unlike the main back-and-forth route through Petra, the back door trail is quiet and serene. It’s just you, the trail, and the incredible landscapes – perfect for those who appreciate and love to be directly among nature and history.
Ending Your Journey at the Treasury
After you’ve spent time taking in the awe-inspiring Monastery and taking a well-deserved rest, you can continue your trek down towards the heart of Petra. You’ll pass through a series of ruins, tombs, and ancient streets as you descend. One of the most interesting parts of the day was the not-so-Insta-famous middle section filled with temple ruins and fascinating stories. You’ll eventually reach the Treasury at the opposite end of the main route. By this time, many of the day-trippers have started to leave, so you might find the site less crowded – a perfect way to end your adventure.
Hopefully this guide has given you the information you need to experience this unforgettable, unique and thrilling way to explore Petra! The back door trail offers a blend of adventure, tranquillity, and incredible history. We can’t recommend it enough – it ended up being the best day of our trip to Jordan, and it was so special to visit in a way not trodden by the masses of other tourists.
Interested in more of our top recommendations in Jordan? Check out our post 10 Best Things to See and Do in Jordan to get inspired for your trip, or take a look at our Ultimate Jordan Itinerary to plan your trip to this amazing country that still feels a little off the beaten path.
Happy hiking! 🥾🏜️
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